WHITE LIGHTNING

Question:

I have found that this product does not perform in the mud and rain of the Pacific Northwest as well as it did if the balmy days of summer. I’ll switch back to it (it was great in the dry) when winter, and some of spring :> is over.

Response:

|> WL can be applied over other lubricants with varying degrees of |> success. For example, the packing grease on a new shimano chain is |> very very bad and needs to be cleaned before use. Conversely the light |> oil on a new Sedis chain is no problem (but I clean it off anyway). |> |> Chris Rutkowski |> White Lightning Anybody have any theories about what is in this stuff? It looks to me like white paraffin wax suspended in some sort of organic solvent (smells like model glue) with some other additives to keep the paraffin wax sticky. One bike shop had let a bunch of it dry out in a pan, and the white residue seemed like sticky paraffin. Any takers? Rob

Response:

Chris – Love the product! Since getting WL I’ve put away all my other lubes and use WL exclusively on both of my bikes. The stuff is amazing! I do have one question though – I’ve noticed that WL, although great as a lube, does not seem to contain any rust inhibitor. If I decide to ride in the rain / mud, do you have any recommendation to what to do? thnkx Patrick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m thinking of switching from Tetra-lube to White Lightening. Need I do >anything to my chain beside sending it through the Park chain cleaner? >Rinse all citrus based cleaners thoroughly with clean water. Then >remove as much water as possible. You can put WL on a chain which is >not completly dry, but  the drier the better.  Drying with a hairdryer >gets out even trapped water in minutes. >Should the chain have absolutely no residue from other lubricants before >applying White Lightening? >Tetra lube shouldn’t present much of a problem because if you followed >the directions, you used as little as possible. You can probably get >by with just a few applicationsof WL, one after the other. Please read >the FAQ included with WL for more info. >As a general comment: the cleaner the chain when you start, the better >the immediate results. So idealley, the chain should be perfectly bare >metal and bone dry. >WL can be applied over other lubricants with varying degrees of >success. For example, the packing grease on a new shimano chain is >very very bad and needs to be cleaned before use. Conversely the light >oil on a new Sedis chain is no problem (but I clean it off anyway). >You can use multiple applications of WL, one after the other, to >remove most of the residue. Typically this will result in a longer >drying time; in some cases it simply won’t dry because the particular >mixture has undesirable characteristics. >Probably the best rule-of-thumb is that when WL has dried, it should >be _dry_ to the touch. Not sticky at all. If the mixture that results >from your efforts won’t dry, to one degree or another WL’s performance >will have been compromised. With continued use, the other lube will be >cleaned off and you’ll get full benefit. >Starting with a clean chain maximizes benefits, so I think it is worth >the effort to do it thoroughly.  Bear in mind that with WL, you only >have to clean the chain that first time. >Tailwinds! >Chris Rutkowski >White Lightning >– >—– >Mark Rosenberg

Response:

I just got a bottle of WL last week and applied it to my chain, cables, and derailleurs.  Wow!  What a difference.  My bike has been shifting like a dream and the drivetrain really is still clean.  I used to use Tri-Flow or Tetra Bike, but this stuff blows everything away.  I haven’t tried it in the wet, however.  Thumbs up to White Lightning! — —      __                _ _o     "I’d rather be out bikin’, thinkin’ of God         o     /

Response:

>I’m thinking of switching from Tetra-lube to White Lightening. Need I do >anything to my chain beside sending it through the Park chain cleaner?

Rinse all citrus based cleaners thoroughly with clean water. Then remove as much water as possible. You can put WL on a chain which is not completly dry, but  the drier the better.  Drying with a hairdryer gets out even trapped water in minutes. >Should the chain have absolutely no residue from other lubricants before >applying White Lightening?

Tetra lube shouldn’t present much of a problem because if you followed the directions, you used as little as possible. You can probably get by with just a few applicationsof WL, one after the other. Please read the FAQ included with WL for more info. As a general comment: the cleaner the chain when you start, the better the immediate results. So idealley, the chain should be perfectly bare metal and bone dry. WL can be applied over other lubricants with varying degrees of success. For example, the packing grease on a new shimano chain is very very bad and needs to be cleaned before use. Conversely the light oil on a new Sedis chain is no problem (but I clean it off anyway). You can use multiple applications of WL, one after the other, to remove most of the residue. Typically this will result in a longer drying time; in some cases it simply won’t dry because the particular mixture has undesirable characteristics. Probably the best rule-of-thumb is that when WL has dried, it should be _dry_ to the touch. Not sticky at all. If the mixture that results from your efforts won’t dry, to one degree or another WL’s performance will have been compromised. With continued use, the other lube will be cleaned off and you’ll get full benefit. Starting with a clean chain maximizes benefits, so I think it is worth the effort to do it thoroughly.  Bear in mind that with WL, you only have to clean the chain that first time. Tailwinds! Chris Rutkowski White Lightning – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->– >—– >Mark Rosenberg

Response:

I’m thinking of switching from Tetra-lube to White Lightening. Need I do anything to my chain beside sending it through the Park chain cleaner? Should the chain have absolutely no residue from other lubricants before applying White Lightening? — —– Mark Rosenberg

Response:

>>Hint: for users of grip shift who don’t have teflon cables, try WL.. >I relubed the F&R derailleurs and the brake pivots perhaps 4 times >during the season. Again, I was not trying to solve any performance >problem, it just seemed prudent. >Looking at it I guess my policy is "When in doubt, lube it". Had a >particularly muddy day? Lube it.  Replacing a tire and the derailleur >is in front of you?  Lube it. >WL for all these applications, eh?  Not just a chain lube anymore?

Never was just a chain lube! But hey, gotta start somewhere……. Chris P.S. My wife stole a bottle off my shelf and unstuck a few wooden windows that hadn’t been opened in 2-3 years…….

Response:

> What are your >experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks!

It’s nothing special, will probably get you through a 30mi ride and maybe a shorter one the next day if you don’t push too hard. I apply it befor every ride (so I won’t have to during), just as I would Boeshield or Pedros ultra dry. I tend to think that in dry conditions, Pedros works best of these 3. Chain might stay a bit cleaner w/W.L. but since it takes me less time to clean the cogs & chain than to lube it, big deal. Fred

Response:

> Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS >WATER AND DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS >FRICTION AND WEAR"…. > This prouduct sounds like it may make this job a little better. What are

your  experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks! LIGHTENING STRIKES AGAIN!!! I too have been using the stuff off-road for a few months.  I’ve used: Finish Line, Tri-Flow, Dupont Teflon, and Sachs/Sedis.  White lightening is the best compromise I’ve found between keeping the chain clean and keeping it lubed.  I ride in the Mojave Desert where moisture isn’t a major concern (unless my Camelback goes dry) however the few times I’ve used it in the rain, stream crossings…and yes even snow (two weeks ago), it’s held up well.  It does something interesting when the chain gets dirt or mud on it.  The chain begins to make the normal "complaining" noise from the dirt and then after several hundred yards it quiets down again. If the chain became dirty with other lubes, it "complained" until cleaned and relubed.   In fact my chain is holding a gun to my head right now, insisting that I write this in hopes of getting published on the back of the next bottleof WL. Seriously, it’s a good product.  Best I’ve found for our trails.  I too would recomend it!  Please donate any royalties earned from this endorsement to the "Old Chain’s Retirement Home" Scott Hansen Apple Valley, Ca.

Response:

White lightning is great stuff. I have been using it for a year and I have not had to clean my chain onces. Now anytime I have to mess with the chain I don’t have to worry about how to clean my hands. Charlie

Response:

    – snip –     >  I do, however, have one question about White Lightning.  How often should I relube > my cables?  My shifter cables are Gore-Tex so I don’t worry about them but I use > White Lightning on my brake cables.

Good question. Unfortunately, there is no clear-cut answer.  Since the mechanical action of cables and pivots is so limited, WL lasts a long time in those applications. But while an under-lubed chain will squeal for relief, cables and derailleur pivots give no such clear-cut indications. Accordingly, as your own chief mechanic, you’ll have to let experience guide you in establishing a relubrication intervals, My personal experience with my road bike is as follows: I lubed my brake cables twice last year; once at the beginning of the season; once when I repacked the headset. Same for the shifter cables _except_ where they pass under the BB shell:  I lubed that spot every couple of weeks. There was no particular reason, it just seems prudent since they are ultra-exposed there. Hint: for users of grip shift who don’t have teflon cables, try WL.. I relubed the F&R derailleurs and the brake pivots perhaps 4 times during the season. Again, I was not trying to solve any performance problem, it just seemed prudent. Looking at it I guess my policy is "When in doubt, lube it". Had a particularly muddy day? Lube it.  Replacing a tire and the derailleur is in front of you?  Lube it. Tis better to prevent noticible performance degradation than to cure it…… Tailwinds! Chris Rutkowski

Response:

:::snip::: On an MTB, if you was offh the bike, just hose off the chain, remove as much water as practical, then relube.  The need to ‘clean’ the chain either on or off the bike is still pretty well eliminated. ::snip::: I will agree to that and I’ll also say the ad should be clearer about the difference between a road bike mileage and a MTB.  Not to say I do not like your product, I LOVE it. I have been using it for 3 months now and I ride pretty hard plus some racing. I had the chain rattle once and that was after a long ride the day before and some water crossings, hosing it clean and then riding without another shot of lube.  Other then that it has worked pretty well. Actually I have had comments about how clean the chain is and why dont I lube it :) No I dont work for them, own stock or otherwise get freebies. Just a happy customer :) Mike

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       On a similar note, I tried White Lightning during the summer and it worked >really well, kept my chain clean and drivetrain running smooth, albeit a little noisier >than with the Pedro’s SynLube ATB. > However, as soon as I went riding once in the rain, it all >washed off.  How do I know?  The next day, my chain was squeeking like crazy and >the day after that, it was rusting.  It eventually broke on the next ride and I bought a >Sachs. >First off, I work for the company. So take my comments with as many >grains of salt as you think appropriate. But I was a rider before I >ever heard of WL, and I was a very happy WL user before I ever worked >for the company. >WL will wash off only when : >a. It is used in wet conditions before all the solvent is allowed to >evaporate. This is bacause it contains a water dispersant that allows >it to be applied to a wet chain. But until the solvent evaporates, >that dispersant allows water to disperse the _lube_ . >b. If the chain was cleaned with a citrus degreaser the degreaser must >be rinsed off before lubing. Water will ‘reactivate’ the degreaser. >When WL is applied to a clean chain and allowed to dry thoroughly, you >can spray water on it  for hours and it won’t wash off. >So what’s going on? Remember that in normal use, the quantity of WL on >the chain is constantly decreasing.  The dirtier the conditions, the >faster the decrease. This is because the ’self cleaning’ action  of WL >is a function of tiny flakes of lube sluffing off when contaminated. >As your own experience in the dry showed, this active cleaning >mechanism is pretty effective.. >When riding in the rain, the drivetrain is exposed to an enormously >greater amount of dirt. Thus the lube is ‘used up’ faster.   >Our rule of thumb is that starting with a freshly lubed chain, you can >expect 3 hours or more road riding time in a downpour. Based on >feedback (and personal experience, blech….); this number is a fair >estimate. >As for riding in mud; feedback from expert and elite level MTB racers >who did the NORBA circuit this year (very muddy in lots of venues) >showed that WL was very effectifve at shedding mud and lasted for the >duration of the XC races. _Of course_  they relubed after  a muddy >ride like that. But that would be my advice no matter what lube used. >How to interpret all this:  if you plan to do century rides in the >rain, or need to ride hour after hour or day after day in the mud >without relubing, WL is not a good choice. But in all candor, these >are conditions to which very few riders would expose themsevles. For >more normal riding (like NORBA XC races in red Georgia clay) WL will >perform very well. >The moral of the story?  Lube your chain after every wet ride >I agree. > and don’t believe all the advertisements. >More importantly; remember that the ads highlight areas where the >limits have been reduced (i.e. performance improved). But _every_ >product has limits and WL is no exception; the FAQ sheet that we >include with every bottle of WL  explains those limits within the >limits of our knowledge.   >Tailwinds! >Chris Rutkowski

        I must commend you for explaining everything so well.  I have to admit that before I started using White Lightning, I used to regularly clean my chaing with citrus degreaser.  That may have been the cause of the lube washing off in the rain.  It is a pleasant surprise to have representatives of companies actually reading and posting in newsgroups.  People like Chris and Keith Bontrager should be commended for their efforts in communicating for cyclists around the world.  I do, however, have one question about White Lightning.  How often should I relube my cables?  My shifter cables are Gore-Tex so I don’t worry about them but I use White Lightning on my brake cables. Char Tang Mountain Biker Extraodinaire (Shyeah, right.)

Response:

>    On a similar note, I tried White Lightning during the summer and it worked >really well, kept my chain clean and drivetrain running smooth, albeit a little noisier than >with the Pedro’s SynLube ATB. > However, as soon as I went riding once in the rain, it all >washed off.  How do I know?  The next day, my chain was squeeking like crazy and the >day after that, it was rusting.  It eventually broke on the next ride and I bought a Sachs.

First off, I work for the company. So take my comments with as many grains of salt as you think appropriate. But I was a rider before I ever heard of WL, and I was a very happy WL user before I ever worked for the company. WL will wash off only when : a. It is used in wet conditions before all the solvent is allowed to evaporate. This is bacause it contains a water dispersant that allows it to be applied to a wet chain. But until the solvent evaporates, that dispersant allows water to disperse the _lube_ . b. If the chain was cleaned with a citrus degreaser the degreaser must be rinsed off before lubing. Water will ‘reactivate’ the degreaser. When WL is applied to a clean chain and allowed to dry thoroughly, you can spray water on it  for hours and it won’t wash off. So what’s going on? Remember that in normal use, the quantity of WL on the chain is constantly decreasing.  The dirtier the conditions, the faster the decrease. This is because the ’self cleaning’ action  of WL is a function of tiny flakes of lube sluffing off when contaminated. As your own experience in the dry showed, this active cleaning mechanism is pretty effective.. When riding in the rain, the drivetrain is exposed to an enormously greater amount of dirt. Thus the lube is ‘used up’ faster.   Our rule of thumb is that starting with a freshly lubed chain, you can expect 3 hours or more road riding time in a downpour. Based on feedback (and personal experience, blech….); this number is a fair estimate. As for riding in mud; feedback from expert and elite level MTB racers who did the NORBA circuit this year (very muddy in lots of venues) showed that WL was very effectifve at shedding mud and lasted for the duration of the XC races. _Of course_  they relubed after  a muddy ride like that. But that would be my advice no matter what lube used. How to interpret all this:  if you plan to do century rides in the rain, or need to ride hour after hour or day after day in the mud without relubing, WL is not a good choice. But in all candor, these are conditions to which very few riders would expose themsevles. For more normal riding (like NORBA XC races in red Georgia clay) WL will perform very well. >The moral of the story?  Lube your chain after every wet ride

I agree. > and don’t believe all the advertisements.

More importantly; remember that the ads highlight areas where the limits have been reduced (i.e. performance improved). But _every_ product has limits and WL is no exception; the FAQ sheet that we include with every bottle of WL  explains those limits within the limits of our knowledge.   Tailwinds! Chris Rutkowski

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->        On a similar note, I tried White Lightning during the summer and it >worked >really well, kept my chain clean and drivetrain running smooth, albeit a >little noisier than >with the Pedro’s SynLube ATB.  However, as soon as I went riding once in the >rain, it all >washed off.  How do I know?  The next day, my chain was squeeking like crazy >and the >day after that, it was rusting.  It eventually broke on the next ride and I >bought a Sachs.   >The moral of the story?  Lube your chain after every wet ride and don’t >believe all the >advertisements. >I had similar experiences with this product. Great in the dry summmer but >definitely seems to disappear in the wet. I thought I saw rust formation >also developing. I’m using Finish Line Cross Country now until Mr. Sun >reappears.

It is possible that you may get some superficial rusting on the _outside_ of the link plates. The insides (where it matters) should be well protected if you relube frequently. After riding for an hour in the rain (on the road) I’ve noticed a rust-colored stain on the sides of my silver Sedis chain. However, when I relube, this discoloration wipes off which shows that it is not a function of the "chain rusiting" per se. Tailwinds (and stay dry…..) Chris Rutkowski

Response:

>It leaves a waxy residue; thus, I think it’s like a liquid chain wax.

That ‘waxy residue’ is the lube. You are right; it is a ‘liquid wax’. (It contains no parrafin for those of you who are curious. The formula is patented.)  It is much easier to work with than traditional chain waxes; application and re-application are trivial. And if you relube before the chain starts to squeak, it is _not_ necessary to clean the chain before reapplying.  (Everytime I read a thread about ‘the best fastidious about chain cleaning; now I don’t give it a moments thought.) >  If you like to wax your chain you might like >it, but I’m going to go back to my regular chain lube.

Since I do work tfor the company my opinion is biased – but I was a rider first, then became a rider who loved the product, and _then_ started  working for the company. For lots of riders the benefits of WL outweigh the disadvanteages: the claims in the ads are pretty well documented. It’s known limitations are: a. You can’t apply it when temps of the lube and bike are below 50F, (you can use it way below freeezing – I personally did lots of rides in the teens this fall), I lube in the garage where the temps are somewhat warmer. b. The solvent must all be evaporated (i.e. the lube must ‘dry’) before use in wet conditions or it will wash off  (because it contains a water dispersant so it can be applied to a wet chain,, but dispersants are a 2-way street where water is concerned). Drying can be accellerated in wet or cold conditions by warming with a hair dryer. Tailwinds! Chris Rutkowski

Response:

>Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND >DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even >had a couple of unbelieveable quotes saying >"There’s 1200 miles on my chain. It >STILL doesn’t need cleaning…"

This quote was from a riding partner of mine at the end of a group ride last summer. In fact, it was what motivated me to write the ad in the first place. The latest edition of the ad was changed to "2851" miles (her end-of-season total related to me at the Xmas party). By the way, I put  about 4000 miles on my personal rides this season, and no, I’ve never had to clean the chain. Also by the way, these numbers concerned road bikes, not MTBs. On an MTB, if you was offh the bike, just hose off the chain, remove as much water as practical, then relube.  The need to ‘clean’ the chain either on or off the bike is still pretty well eliminated. We’re coming out with a poster/ad  this spring that shows unsolicited photos and a letter from a guy on the US Vetern’s Men XC team (Greg Nelson) that were taken 2 minutes after the world championships this last fall. The bike is coated in mud; the chain is clean. Yes he likes the stuff; and no we didn’t pay him to say nice things about the product. Tailwinds! Chris Rutkowski

Response:

> Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND > DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even > had a couple of unbelieveable quotes saying "There’s 1200 miles on my chain. It > STILL doesn’t need cleaning…" and "It was lap three, The world was made of > mud. Chains were jamming left and right. MINE was shifting sweet…". I don’t > actually believe these quotes but I hate dirty chains and I hate cleaning them. > This prouduct sounds like it may make this job a little better. What are your > experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks!

I have been using the stuff for a few months now, on both my road and mountian bikes.  It is great!  My chain does need to be lubed less, it collects much less gunk, and shifts great.  The best part is that, when I do have to touch the chain, my hands stay clean.  My guess is that the stuff works like chain wax, and that they put it in a petroleum based solvent that evaporates quickly, and draws the lube deeper into the chain.  The chain should, in theory, last longer too, as it doesn’t collect dust or mud.  It is supposed to work great on cables and pivots also.  I would definitely reccomend it! cheers jcb

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND >DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even >had a couple of unbelieveable quotes saying "There’s 1200 miles on my chain. It >STILL doesn’t need cleaning…" and "It was lap three, The world was made of >mud. Chains were jamming left and right. MINE was shifting sweet…". I don’t >actually believe these quotes but I hate dirty chains and I hate cleaning them. >This prouduct sounds like it may make this job a little better. What are your >experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks! >Sincerely, >Andrew C. Stokes

Well Andrew, I’ve been using White Lightning since May of 95 and I have to say that I am very impressed.  No, it does not last hundreds of miles like the bottle says, and you do still have to use a good chain cleaner once in a while.  One application usually lasts me through three off-road rides (approx 150 mi + or – 50).  It does a remarkable job of cleaning dirt from the chain on reapplication and I only degrease my chain once every two to three months now.  The lubrication qualities are quite good overall and skipping, binding, or harsh shifting almost never occur-even in severe mud.  I wholeheartedly reccommend the product, and no, I DON’T work for them! :) Happy Trails!

Response:

> Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND > DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even > had a couple of unbelieveable quotes saying "There’s 1200 miles on my chain. It > STILL doesn’t need cleaning…" and "It was lap three, The world was made of > mud. Chains were jamming left and right. MINE was shifting sweet…". I don’t > actually believe these quotes but I hate dirty chains and I hate cleaning them. > This prouduct sounds like it may make this job a little better. What are your > experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks!

At first I kind of didn’t like it.  I found that I had to apply it pretty often, otherwise my chain would start squeeking and making noise.  But, if you apply it fairly often it’s great stuff.  It really does keep your chain clean and it works fine as lube.  I do clean my bike fairly often, but I have only scrubbed my chain maybe once or twice since I started using it.  Great stuff.  This year I’ve experimented with it, Boeshield T-9, Tetra Lube, Pro Floyd, and maybe some others.  I’m definitly sticking with White Lightning. I think their claims are a bit misleading.  I’m sure there is 1200 miles on the guys chain, but not with a single application of the lube, but yeah, it probably doesn’t need cleaning.  In the rain and mud this year, I haven’t had any problems with my chain so far.   You will notice that maybe a very thin, harmless bit of dirt or dust will settle on the outside of the "inner" link plates of the chain, but it doesn’t cause any problems.  You care wire brush this off every so often if you like, although it never seems to get any thicker, so I kind of just ignore it now. Oh, there’ve been times when I forget to wipe it dry, but I still don’t have problems.  I do think it’s best to follow their directions, but this is good stuff. Hyperion Software Pillar Group My opinions do not necessarily represent those of Hyperion Software.

Response:

Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even had a couple of unbelieveable quotes saying "There’s 1200 miles on my chain. It STILL doesn’t need cleaning…" and "It was lap three, The world was made of mud. Chains were jamming left and right. MINE was shifting sweet…". I don’t actually believe these quotes but I hate dirty chains and I hate cleaning them. This prouduct sounds like it may make this job a little better. What are your experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks! Sincerely, Andrew C. Stokes

Response:

>    On a similar note, I tried White Lightning during the summer and it worked >really well, kept my chain clean and drivetrain running smooth, albeit a

little noisier than >with the Pedro’s SynLube ATB.  However, as soon as I went riding once in the rain, it all >washed off.  How do I know?  The next day, my chain was squeeking like crazy and the >day after that, it was rusting.  It eventually broke on the next ride and I bought a Sachs.   >The moral of the story?  Lube your chain after every wet ride and don’t believe all the >advertisements.

I had similar experiences with this product. Great in the dry summmer but definitely seems to disappear in the wet. I thought I saw rust formation also developing. I’m using Finish Line Cross Country now until Mr. Sun reappears.

Response:

: Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER AND : DIRE LIKE MAGIC", "QUICKER SHIFTING, LESS FRICTION AND WEAR". Their add even [...snip...] I just tried some.  It might’ve been coincidence, but after coating my chain and dropping a few drops on the rear derailluer pivots, my shifting went to hell and I had to readjust it.  It leaves a waxy residue; thus, I think it’s like a liquid chain wax.  If you like to wax your chain you might like it, but I’m going to go back to my regular chain lube. Dave Wiesenhahn

Response:

>: Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube? They claim  it "SHEDS WATER >I just tried some.  It might’ve been coincidence, but after coating my chain >and dropping a few drops on the rear derailluer pivots, my >shifting went to hell and I had to readjust it.  It leaves a waxy residue; thus, > I think it’s like a liquid chain wax.  If you like to wax your chain you might like >it, but I’m going to go back to my regular chain lube. >Dave Wiesenhahn

        On a similar note, I tried White Lightning during the summer and it worked really well, kept my chain clean and drivetrain running smooth, albeit a little noisier than with the Pedro’s SynLube ATB.  However, as soon as I went riding once in the rain, it all washed off.  How do I know?  The next day, my chain was squeeking like crazy and the day after that, it was rusting.  It eventually broke on the next ride and I bought a Sachs.   The moral of the story?  Lube your chain after every wet ride and don’t believe all the advertisements.

Response:

: Does anyone use WHITE LIGHTNING chain lube?     What are your : experiences with WHITE LIGHTNING? Thanks! : : I’m on my third bottle of the stuff, and I hate cleaning my bike. I will, of course, clean my chain if I have to, but in the summer the White Lightning lubes my chain without providing the stickyness that attracts dirt buildup from dust.  Now that it’s a little wetter in northern California and the mud is hard to avoid (thou should ride through the middle, for trail preservation) I have to take the hose to it occasionally. It seems the WL makes the mud rinse off easier.  I did have one period last year when I rode 800 miles on one application, though the chain did a bit of creaking toward the end.  I also applied to much, or failed to wipe it off once and thought I was in for new chainrings/cassettes.   Follow the directions. Ride hard/Have fun —

Response:

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